Gometra/Ulva (via Staffa) - 03 July 2006 (day 44)

Yacht Gothik

At Anchor

Between the Islands of Gometra & Ulva

Argyll & Bute

03 July 2006

Click here to see a map.

Logged distance: 19.5M

Chart distance: 21M (via Staffa)

Time under way: 4h15m

Monday 03 July 2006

The strong wind forecast for yesterday afternoon blew all night, though by the morning it had began to soften with the rising of the sun. The plan today was to head southeast to the famous island of Staffa. Staffa is the home of Fingal's Cave, of many birds and seals but no humans. It is notoriously difficult to land on Staffa, there being rock all around and no safe anchorage. Although we had no intention of staying overnight the idea of getting a closer look at Fingal's Cave from the dingy weighed strongly upon our curiosity. I was doubtful it would be possible - the wind last night was sure to have pushed up a swell.

Setting off under shortened sail, with a stiff but kind breeze from the north, we made good progress. The sea was a little bumpy but there was no menace in it - a close look at Staffa may just be in hand. Before Staffa though, were the Treshnish Isles; a small group of uninhabited islands. Wild shapes, low and flat with humps - here you see the "Dutchman's Cap".

Keith took up position forward of the mast (a favourite of mine also). In fine weather the sea, unbroken by the wake, rushes toward you - the clear air freshens the senses and emboldens the mind. A magical hand carries you across the waves.

Staffa grew out of the distance, Mull embracing it to the south. The swell decreasing by the hour. Would we be able to stop by?

It happened that the swell was just too much for a safe stop. Instead we furled the headsail and satisfied ourselves with a close encounter sailing under main alone. No engine to break the silence. The island and cave are most definitely something to be seen first hand. Evidently many other people thought so - a group of day trippers had been ferried to the island in a small boat and could be seen clambering around on a specially built pathway.

After peering into Fingal's Cave and safely rounding Staffa we unfurled the headsail and set a course for the islands of Gometra and Ulva, a little over three miles to the northeast. Between the two islands was a safe anchorage. The wind was expected to decrease overnight and we were hoping an early start tomorrow would offer a better (and more private) chance of getting a closer look at Fingal's Cave.

Once in the anchorage our usual visitors arraived as soon as we had jettisoned the potato peelings and onion skins left over from our dinner preparations. This more often than not results in a noisy skirmish from the local gulls. The most aggressive of which would swoop down and snatch a sample before dropping it in disgust. It was obvious they were unimpressed by our discards but still they would sit close by, in hope of something better, at the same time preventing all other gulls from sampling what was already there. Occasionally, an especially bold gull would sit tight and watch us eat our dinner.

Another picture of Keith - in another world.