Lochinver - 24 July 2006 (day 65)

Yacht Gothik

Lochinver Harbour

Lochinver

Loch Inver

Highland

24 July 2006

Click here to see a map.

Logged distance: 12M (log had caught some weed and so reading is inaccurate)

Chart distance: 18M

Time under way: 4h

Monday 24 July 2006

It was an earlyish start today. We had a notion to head westwards to once again to revisit the Isle of Lewis but the forecast was not so good. Instead, under reefed main, we made our way northwards to Lochinver. The reefed main proved overcautious and soon we shook out the reef as the wind dropped from an occasional 6 to force 5, then to force 4 and finally 3.

It was cloudy and overcast but the sky added drama to the stunning backdrop of the mainland. The conspicuous mountain of Suilven pushing its head into the clouds was a landmark visible for nearly all of today's passage.

The trip has taken a different feel once again - it must be to do with the mainland. Although no more populated here (and no less isolated) than on the islands, a sense of light-hearted self-sufficiency has given way to something sadder, emptier and more lonely.

We thought we would have a go at fishing along the way, Keith put the line out and immediately reeled it in with two beautiful fish. He let it out once more and within a few minutes had to pull it back - this time with four fish, all on the same line. Within another 30 minutes or so we had caught a total of 11 mackerel, two managed to wriggle free and one we threw back to leave us with 8 fine fish for dinner.

Whilst fishing David pointed out to us a Skua; a large heavy sea bird, similar in shape to a gull but with eagle like characteristics. This was a first sighting for Keith and I, a bird we had not seen before on this trip. It was obviously taking an interest in our fishing line and lures and flew right up close to the back of the boat at eye-level before stalling in flight and landing on the water. It then sat there looking at us as we sailed on for another two or three hundred metres whereupon it took to the air once more and made another approach and then landed. The Skua repeated this manoeuvre again and again giving us a wonderful opportunity to get a good look at it. From our bird book it was easy to identify it as a Great Skua - "bold, aggressive, a predator on seabirds at all times, as well as a pirate, chasing birds as large as gannets to steal food". It certainly seemed to know no fear.

We arrived in Lochinver mid afternoon. The small pontoon for yachts was full and we were advised by the harbour master to anchor. This was easier said than done - it took three attempts, the bottom being foul with weed and stone, but finally the hook held.

Just before anchoring we passed close to a small spherical buoy (about the size of a space hopper) upon which was perched a shag. Shags are lovely creatures - slender, shiny black with wide eyes, they stand tall and proud with beaks pointing high in the air. Shags are normally quite shy and it was obvious this particular shag was very attached to his buoy for it was with great reluctance, and only when we were very close, that he chose to fly off. After anchoring the shag returned and was sat in the water about 5m away from the buoy contemplating its old perch. As we watched, the shag lifted its wings and took a flapping run at the buoy... it didn't quite make it! Instead the buoy wobbled under its weight and the shag promptly slid off backwards like a penguin into the water. We laughed unashamedly, it is not everyday that one sees wildlife getting it wrong. More laughs came our way as the poor shag made two more unsuccessful attempts, one of which was a headlong dive into the middle of the buoy. Thankfully (for conscience was beginning to get in the way of amusement) the shag achieved its goal - a bit wobbly at first but soon it was sitting proud once more.

Lochinver is a big fishing port with a very large quay suitable for a fishing fleet of some size. At one end of the quay is an ice-factory (for fish packing) and along the rest of its length it is lined with a modern purpose built building, more than 200m long, for off-loading the catch from the boats. The rear of the building has about 20 or so loading bays for articulated lorries to pull up to. However, Lochinver no longer has a fishing fleet of any size. The two fishing vessels we saw were large but were dwarfed by the industrial surroundings. The vessels were from Brittany, not from Scotland.

For an hour or so we perused the shore from the distance of our anchorage. We had just got the dingy inflated when two yachts cast off their lines from the pontoon in the harbour. We weighed anchor and slipped into one of the empty berths and took a stroll ashore. I'd been to Lochinver some years before - it was mid-winter and very few people were about - now, a month after mid-summer, there is more daylight but no more in the way of people. It occurred to me that Lochinver is the northern most place I have been to on Earth - apart from (possibly) when in an airliner, flying a great circle route from one place in the northern hemisphere to another.

Back on the boat we lit a fire under the fish and threw together some salad finishing the evening late with wine, music and conversation.

Some more photo's...

"Greylag" - a beautiful schooner and our neighbour for the evening. Keith and I spent a long time admiring the fixtures, fittings and rig. Greylag had a wonderful lived in look. Well kept and well used.

One of the bottles purchased six weeks ago from the South African wine shop in Dublin.

Cosy cabin by tilley lamp.