Kinlochbervie - 27 July 2006 (day 68)

Yacht Gothik

Kinlochbervie Harbour

Kinlochbervie

Loch Inchard

Highland

27 July 2006

Click here to see a map.

Logged distance: 13.5M

Chart distance: 15M

Time under way: 3h

Thursday 27 July 2006

The chart said the bottom was mud. It certainly was - thick soft mud, Will weighed an anchor and chain that was covered in it. He spent more time with a bucket and brush washing it than lifting it - a very muddy anchor indeed. We edged our way out passed all dangers and by 10 o'clock were 2 cables (400m) north-east of Glas Leac, motoring once again in a day with no wind.

I felt for Will and David; not much of a sailing adventure for them but at least the scenery was quite something and we were still moving. This was the fifth and last day of their trip aboard Gothik, if we'd been holed up somewhere with gales it would have been very unfortunate indeed. For me, each day was more north than I had ever been.

On our way northwards we passed the bird colonies on the west side of Handa Island. Handa is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. For 30 years from 1961 it was leased to the RSPB. The lease was not renewed in 1991, the owners feeling it more appropriate that a solely Scottish conservation body should run it and it is now managed by The Scottish Wildlife Trust. I wonder how the RSPB felt about that. In his book "Isles of the West", the Scottish author Ian Mitchell writes unforgivingly about the RSPB, he paints a picture of uncompromising arrogance in pursuit of RSPB interests at the expense of the local populations; both human and bird.

Thanks to eagle-eye David we had another wildlife first today, this time a Fulmar. The truth be known we have probably seen many of these before but not being true bird aficionados we have not recognised them as something distinct from other gulls. The Fulmar is an ugly misshapen sea bird, swinging from side to side over the waves, at speed, upon stiff wings.

Photograph of the approach to Loch Inchard (and Kinlochbervie). Loch Inchard begins about a third of the way in from the left hand side of the picture:

William on the bow (reflecting on his last day of the trip) at the head of Loch Inchard - looking to the east and into the loch.

Kinlochbervie is so well tucked away on the north side of Loch Inchard that it is not visible until well into the loch and fully abreast of it. If it wasn't for the fuel depot and the fish sheds it would have been easy to sail right on past Kinlochbervie without even knowing it was there.

Once we had tied up to the tiny pontoon inside the large fishing harbour, Will and David packed their bags while Keith and I went ashore for provisions. Not much here - it felt very frontier town like. A small collection of houses (grey pebble-dashed single story boxes) spread around and a small Spa corner shop. We all met up in the Royal Mission for Deep Sea Fishermen for a hearty cooked breakfast. This place it seemed was the centre of the town as far as local connections were concerned. Post box, telephone, showers, toilets and laundry, a games room and cafeteria but no bar. In fact the warden or harbour master noticed the cans of beer in our shopping bags and politely told us that alcohol was not allowed on the premises - but he turned an understanding blind eye. People came and went. The busses to and from other parts of Scotland also left from this point. Yes, the Royal Mission for Deep Sea Fishermen was the heart of this town, opposite the fish quay - another ice-factory and another huge empty modern fish building just like that in Lochinver. Even fewer fishing boats here - a total of zero.

Will and David's bus arrived to take them back to Ullapool. Hand shakes and good byes - they had been great company, we'd had a few relaxed days and I felt sorry that the sailing for them had not been the most interesting and that we'd only covered short distances. They'd made a splendid effort to get here and it was good to see an old friend I'd not been in touch with for several years - it is nice to think of the renewed friendship and to look forward to some good times in the future.

At half past six Phil, my Brightlingsea neighbour, arrived after a two day journey and a few untimely travel connections. I was only half way through tomorrow's passage plan and was keen to socialise. It had been a hot day but it was now cool enough to take a shower without fear of getting dirty. Instead of cooking we decided to get a take-away fish and chip supper from the Royal Mission for Deep Sea Fisherman. Delicious.

Close up of a seal in the harbour. He must have been very hungry, the last fishing boat to pull in here was two weeks ago.

Yes, this one was really hungry (or very tame indeed).

Closer still!